We spent the month of November 2016 in Argentina, leaving 1st November and returning on 1st December, undertaking 10 air flights during those 31 days
On 1st November we flew on Iberia from Alicante to Madrid and then Madrid to Buenos Airies. On the 5th we flew to Iguazo on Lan Airlines, Then the rest of out time in Argentina we flew with Aerolineas Argentinas. On the 9th to Salta, the 12th to Cordoba, and on the 14th to San Luis. From there we went by bus to Bariloche – a long bus trip and when Jo awoke, so used to being on a plane, she thought we were landing at an airport! On 21st we flew from Bariloche to El Calafate and eventually, on 26th we returned to Buenos Aires. On 30th November we flew Iberia to Madrid and then Alicante arrived on 1st December. Phew!
For a full itinerary of our trip, flights, hotels and details of the various tours see this document produced by Travel Nation who booked everything under Jo’s direction.
Buenos Aires
We stayed at the Duque Boutique & Spar hotel. A pretty and small hotel with a good little reception and friendly staff. Breakfast was basic but you could order freshly cooked eggs anyway! Some initial problems with the room i.e. bathroom door but all fixed. Lovely large room with a balcony at the front of the hotel Also a nice outside area with a small pool This hotel was recommended by a friend and is certainly a good choice
On 2nd we went on a City Tour arranged by ATP. The actual tour was less than 3 hours but advertised as a 4-hour tour. Disappointing would have been better to do a normal tour on a city bus. They got a taxi for us to take us back to the hotel (their cost) but just dropped us a distance from the hotel! Recoleta Cemetery (where Eva Peron is buried) was worth visiting but Plazo de Mayo, Government House, the Cathedral, La Boca & San Telmo all seemed to rush by (maybe a little tired after travelling ).
Photos of the City Tour
In the afternoon we walked to the Evita Museum which was well worth the visit also Museum Bellas Artes which houses many famous artists’ works from many centuries and all over the world. In the evening we went to the Dinner & Show Carlos Gardel.
This Tango club & restaurant is decorated in Art Nouveau style, recreating the sophistication and luxury of the salons of old times. In ambience, it lived up to its name but turned out to be a great disappointment. We could not eat our meal, the beef was fatty and tough and generally a most inedible meal which we sent back! Many other visitors agreed with us. The actual show was only 1 hour which included singing The actual dancing lacked passion and we felt the whole evening was purely a tourist trap and we were constantly being asked to have photos taken
Friday the 4th was a free day and we bought a bus pass and went to the Travel Information Office (Av. Rogue S Pena) which was tiny with no brochures and a useless and rude girl and we wasted two hours trying to find it.
On Saturday the 5th we were picked up from the hotel on time and taken to the Domestic airport for a flight to Iguazu – unfortunately, the car arranged by ATP dropped us off at the incorrect departure area. No problem. We speak Spanish!
IGUAZU FALLS
We arrived at the Mercure Hotel, a large smart hotel in a jungle location. The front reception was pleasant. Breakfast staff slow replaced empty bowls etc. Especially when we wanted our room cleaned (sign on the door at 8.00) to have a day of rest after tours and after numerous requests to maid and front desk, it got cleaned after 3.00! Lots of noisy Australians in the restaurant Breakfast was not as good as Duque. It did however have a nice pool and bar.
For some reason, a photo of our three cases – is not bad for a month! Two were Jo’s!
Tour of Iguazu falls
On 6th November we went on a full-day tour of the amazing Iguaza Falls and on Monday a further half day on the Brazilian side. So we visited Brazil!
Picked up by Remy who had also collected us from Airport He gave us a fantastic day at the falls both walking and a boat trip under the falls (one of the most memorable experiences in Argentina!) and arrived back at the hotel soaking wet.
Spectacular scenery. Particularly Garganta del Diablo- Pioneer Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca found the waterfalls in 1542 and named them Holy Mary Waterfalls. The Argentinean (1934) and Brazilian parks ( 1939) were created. We enjoyed a second day on the Brazilian side.
What a super guide Remy was!!
Remy
A few photos
We have many photos of these amazing waterfalls and our crazy trip underneath one. A video brings it to life and this.
On Tuesday 8th we found this interesting small restaurant of La Vaca Enamorada run by Alberto and his wife (chef) a very entertaining meal and evening but the town of Iguazu is not worth going out of your way to visit.
La Vaca Window
Jo at La Vaca
La Vaca with Alberto
On Wednesday Remy took us to the airport to catch the flight from Iguazu to Salta.
SALTA
We were picked up at the airport in Salta and taken to the Villa Vicuna Hotel, a chic, Spanish colonial-style boutique hotel 4 mins walk from the Cathedral and main square with only 12 rooms, nicely decorated, with pleasant reception staff. Breakfasts were OK with a superb fruit selection Lovely room overlooking gardens and pool and outside bar area.
On Thursday the 10th we went on the Salinas Grandes Tour
We were picked up at 07.10 but long delay picking up other travellers. Transport old and bus rattled, seats with holes and tears. Some seat belts not working this transport for a whole day tour where the driver (Sergio) drove for 10 hours This would not be allowed in Europe or America He was in some cases driving at over 100 km an hour for the last 2 hours You need to feel safe on a long tour like this We did not but this was not the fault of Sergio but the operators of this tour The winding road took us through rough Quebrada del Toro following the Tren a las Nubes to San Antonio de Los Cobres which stands at 3,744 metres above sea level and owes its name to the copper-rich in this area. After this, we headed north coming across llamas and vicunas until we came to Salinas Grandes salt plains located astride the Jujuy and Salta provinces Eventually we reached Purmamarca, a little gem of villages and the mount of seven colours – these memories of the magical coloured mountains will remain with us.
Many photos of this tour
Friday 11th November was a free day in Salta and we walked around the town and visited the San Francisco Church and the Museum Historical del Norte
Our photos of Salta
It started to rain but then we went out again in the afternoon onto the Teleferico San Bernardo Cable Car with terrific views of Salta from up high We got totally lost returning to the hotel!
We ate at the Posas de Caseros Restaurant which was conveniently situated opposite our hotel and after eating there the second night it was so good and the young waiter so helpful we decided to have our last meal in Salta there as well Wonderful steak and even though our waiter was off the last night the service was still impeccable.
On Saturday 12th we had a good pick up and flight from Salta to Cordoba and collection from Cordoba airport by a pleasant driver in a private car
CORDOBA
We stayed two nights at the Hotel NH Urbano which was located in heart of Cordoba A large hotel with over 70 guest rooms. It was within easy access to shops, restaurants, and bars. Initially unwelcoming tall young male receptionist but later staff much more charming particularly a young woman. Our room was on the 11th floor and was spacious with the pool on the 13th floor which we took advantage of.
We had two free days in Cordoba.
We took the open-air bus City Tour
We visited bar APARTMENT for drinks twice when we also visited the market opposite which was great We Had a great meal at IT an Italian restaurant
On the way back in the square watched them Tango dancing A super sight
On Monday 14th we flew from Cordoba to San Louis by plane then to Mendoza by bus.
MENDOZA
We stayed at the Huentala Hotel in Mendoza and had an extremely good greeting when we arrived. A large smart hotel 4 star opened in 1976 located in the heart of the city. Comfortable 7th-floor room Breakfast had a good assortment of hot and cold – charming dining room. Had a pleasant evening meal Staff let us stay in our room as long as possible as we were taking an overnight bus to Bariloche
There was a half-day Wine Tour with the agency Katak. We were picked up from the hotel by Anita and visited three smart vineyards, Rothschilds, Caras and Catena Zapata for wine tasting and details of their history Had lunch at the last vineyard.
Lots of
of this trip
We also had a full day Andes Tour – High Mountain trip again with Katak. Having been picked up late from the hotel we crossed wonderful scenery in Potrerillos, Picheuta, Penitentes and Uspallata where we stopped for the worst coffee we have ever tasted and miserable service – suggest the tour company change their venue Enjoyed the trip particularly the chair lift up the mountains and the view of Mount Aconcagua
There were 11 people on this trip, not 8 as stated, and we did not have lunch with the group but went across the road and had an interesting meeting with a woman and her mother from Buenos Aires and had hot chocolate
Again lots of
In the evening we visited the area of Aristedes Villeneuve where there were lots of bars and restaurants but went back to the hotel and had a pleasant meal, after a couple of drinks.
On the 17th/18th we took the omnibus overnight from Mendoza to Bariloche. A very comfortable overnight journey of 18.5 hrs on the lower floor of the bus with a relaxing sleeping position. Films available, food, drink and blankets – slept well. This is where Jo fell asleep and woke up thinking she was in a plane and just landing.
BARILOCHE
We were picked up at the bus station in Bariloche by Enrique and Raquel who were very helpful and delivered us to Villa Huinid Hotel.
Lovely hotel, and beautiful lake view room of Nahuel Huapi Lake five minutes from the centre of Bariloche. Heated indoor swimming pool and a large outside terrace to sunbathe and have a drink – a fitness studio and beauty treatments. The breakfasts had many choices bacon, eggs, sausages, potatoes and the usual ham, cheese and fruit. Had two simple evening meals in the bar as did not feel like a heavy evening meal and the upstairs dining room was empty. One of our favourite hotels and wished we could have stayed longer.
On the 19th we did a full-day tour of San Martin de Los Andes arranged by Alum-Co Turismo. We were picked up at the hotel at 7.45. Very beautiful scenery of 7 Lakes. Good tour guide Joanna and driver. Stopped at the charming town of Villa la Angostura on the way and had coffee and hot chocolate This 17 km road traverses the Lanin and Nahuel Huapi National Parks across beautiful scenic landscapes providing access to the seven lakes the Lacar Machonico Falkner, Villarino. Escondido, Espejo and Correntoso. Nestled between Mount Chapelco and the Banks of Lago Lacar, San Martin de Los Andes is a mountain gem We had lunch in the town and then headed back to Bariloche
The Bariloche Lake trip photos
On Sunday 20th we went on a half-day tour including a chair lift, again organised by Alum. We were picked up at 3.00 There were too many people on the tour (18) so hard to see out of coach would have been easier just to get a taxi from the hotel to the chair lift particularly as went out-of-the-way to collect and return some people from Llao Lau Hotel which added 20 minutes. The chair lift was good and gave an amazing view of Bariloche and the surrounding area and Andean peaks The road continues along the lakeshore crossing the Angostura River which links the Moreno and National Huapi lakes coming to Lopez bay The drive then crosses the bridge over the Moreno Lake and along the Clover Lagoon to finally reach the Bustillo avenue again towards Bariloche city.
and a visual
Later we were dropped off in Bariloche and found the La Casita restaurant small and interesting Had the trout in the lemon sauce as trout comes from the lake and is a speciality of this area. A lovely meal
On Monday 21st November we were picked up by Raquel at the hotel and taken to the airport to fly to El Calafate
EL CALAFATE
Arrived in the south in Patagonia at El Calafate we were picked up by Faustina of Visit Patagonia and taken to Hotel Sierra Nevada where we were to stay for five days.
This hotel was the most basic we stayed at during our 4 weeks in Argentina and although this was obvious from the following – no fridge in the room, toilet paper so thin was uneconomical, and no tea making facilities and not a very professional front desk – in spite of this situated in a convenient place in the main street in Calafate with views of Bahia Redonda and the Glaciers National Park TV and WiFi, bright rooms and a balcony facing the garden and the Andes mountains. A good but basic breakfast, and a good restaurant to enjoy an evening meal which we did on two occasions thanks not just to the food but the terrific service of Silvio (who also was a terrific barman) The lounge area of the hotel was very comfortable and well planned.
Bikes were free to use – all in all, a good choice for a 3-star hotel which supplied us with a good packed lunch for our Glacier tour
We used the bikes but unfortunately, Tony’s handlebars spun round and could not be fixed. After falling off he had to start to push it back to the hotel. Jo rode back to tell them and they came out to rescue Tony and collect the bike.
On the 22nd we drove to the Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez. This nature reserve bird-life sanctuary was certainly worth our visit. A unique wetland which holds rich biodiversity of Patagonian birds and plants Although not bird watchers we certainly enjoyed this visit
See pictures
We tried different restaurants in El Carafate.
From all the reports the Restaurant Mako was a restaurant we really wanted to visit. Our first try on the 21st was very busy and decided to go on the 22nd when we eventually got a table inside – we waited for ages and the room was getting extremely hot and we felt like we would pass out! Managed to get the attention eventually of a waitress and asked if we could move to an outside table which she reluctantly agreed – we waited at our outside table and again no sign of any service and our hunger could wait no longer and we left! Suggest if this restaurant is so good maybe a better customer service?
So we went to the Cerveceria Chopin, finding this place in desperation after waiting for ages to be served at Mako. Unfortunately not beer aficionados but managed to get a meal served quickly by friendly staff – good atmosphere, basic and colourful
First visited the Restaurant Salix to have an early evening drink overlooking the bay.a lovely spot! Decided to come back two evenings later to have a meal – lovely service and enjoyable meal Hope it gets known as it is a little out of the main town. Just looked it up in January 2019 and it’s permanently closed!
On the 23rd we had a full day on the great Glacier tour and Safari Nautico which was the main reason for visiting this far south.
We were collected from the hotel by Laura from Visit Patagonia who was a terrific tour guide. The drive to the glacier was over an hour with stops to enjoy the views. The first view of the glacier was the amazing Perito Moreno Glacier which is one of the world’s largest reserves of freshwater measuring 96.52 square miles – 250 sq kilometres. It is one of the few glaciers which are advancing instead of retreating- It is 30 km long and towers some 70 metres above the walkways that give different views from the promontory of Peninsula de Magallanes that juts out into Lago Argentino
As you stand below gazing at the face you hear the creaks like rifle shots and huge chunks of ice fall into the water. We combined this catwalk visit with the Nautica Safari which takes you by boat to the south face of the glacier sailing a safe distance along the entire face and hearing and seeing large chunks falling into the lake A truly memorable experience!
As shown in these photos
And a video showing chunks falling off
On Friday 25th we took the local bus out to the Glaciarium which provides a wonderful history of Glaciers. and is one of the few glacier museums in the world The architecture of the museum is quite unique and the facade of the building is reminiscent of the face of a glacier.
The exhibits include models, dioramas, various documentaries and importantly the first ‘Glacio’ an ICE BAR which we thoroughly enjoyed drinking vodka and tonics in ice glasses from a very jolly barman.
More photos
On Saturday 26th we were picked up from the hotel and taken to the airport for our flight to Buenos Aires.
BUENOS AIRES
Back to our Hotel Duque Boutique for another four nights and received with flowers, given the wrong room but immediately changed back to our first room
On the first night, we ate at La Popular del Soho A quick meal in this football sports restaurant as Tony was not well (the start of an illness which is still around in late 2020). Good place for a quick meal with lovely and prompt service.
Restaurant La Popular
On Sunday 27th we went to San Telmo Market. Tony still not feeling well so left him sitting outside at a bar whilst I explored this interesting market and looked into various restaurants with Tango dancing. A great place to seek some Buenos Aires atmosphere on a Sunday
Some
The next day, Monday, Jo went on a full-day trip to a Ranch. Unfortunately, a day was missed by Tony as still ill.
Picked up at the hotel by Pablo of Signature Tours for a day in the countryside. An hour and a half journey to San Antonio de Areco and a special story on the way of the history of the Gauchos and the importance of farming in this area plus much more history of B.A. told by Pablo. He was so informative. Arriving at San Antonio we had a tour of the town and a silver museum where the family were still making silver objects relating to the Guachos medals We then continued to the El Ombu Estancia (website currently not available) where we were met with drinks and empanadas and then invited to a horse ride with the gauchos which Jo thoroughly enjoyed. At lunchtime, we enjoyed a typical barbeque which was delicious and was entertained with local music, guitar playing and a demonstration of horse training gaucho style A truly memorable day.
on the 28th, after our earlier Tango disappointment we decided after reading reports and finally managing to book we went to We Are Tango.
A small area with seating for up to 20 people. There were 16 there. Chairs and tables around a small dance area with a raised stage above the dance floor with 3 musicians.
Only one dance team, who were very good. Also, a good singer and the musicians were talented.
Much more intimate of course than the large auditorium where we attended the earlier show.
There was a show of about 50 minutes and then another 40 minutes where the two professional dancers gave lessons to anyone who wanted to learn basic steps, and most took up the offer.
Far better than the Carlos Gardel show but we had some criticisms. We felt it would have been a better show if there had been two sets of dancers and far less singing, although we appreciate this may make it more expensive. We like Malbek wine and had paid for this, but between us couldn’t even drink one glass. Beware ‘drink as much as you like’ offers you will be given the poor quality. We were and should have known better.
Finally, on the 30th November, we had a super lunch at Don Julio Restaurant with a fantastic steak before leaving Argentina in the afternoon for the flight back overnight to Madrid.
Restaurant Don Julio
An incredible holiday.
We used a company called Travel Nation to fix all the air flights, hotels and organised trips at the various locations. Normally Jo would organise this online but this was just too long and complicated for her to do. Jackie Jones at Travel Nation was great.
The bill from Travel Nation was £6,259. On top of this, we paid in US$ and Euros for meals etc etc of about £3,000. So expensive but worth it.