Ubeda is a town in the province of Jaén in Spain’s autonomous community of Andalusia, with some 36,025 inhabitants. Both this city and the neighboring city of Baeza benefited from extensive patronage in the early 16th century resulting in the construction of a series of Renaissance style palaces and churches, which have been preserved ever since. In 2003, UNESCO declared the historic cores and monuments of these two towns a World Heritage Site.HistoryRecent archaeological findings indicate a pre-Roman settlement at Úbeda, such as argaric and iberic remains. The capital or the iberic state was called Iltiraka and was located over the Guadalquivir river, 10 km south of the actual site of the town. Romans and later Visigoths occupied the site as a settlement. This area became an important city in the Muslim conquest of the Iberia. It was refounded by Abd ar-Rahman II (822–852), who called it Arab’s Ubbada i.e. ´(Ubbadat-Al-Arab). It was included in the area of Jaén. In this period, its territory extended to more than 35,000 hectares. During the Reconquista, in 1233, King Ferdinand III was able to wrest the own from the Muslim rulers. After that, the Muslim, Christian and Jewish cultures oexisted for a long time.
Baeza, Population: 16,100 (2016) (Spanish pronunciation: [baˈeθa]), formerly also written as Baéza,[1] is an Andalusian town in the province of Jaén in southern Spain. It lies perched on a cliff in the Loma de Úbeda, the range separating the Guadalquivir River to its south from the Guadalimarto its north. It is now principally famed for having some of the best-preserved examples of Italian Renaissance architecture in Spain. Along with Úbeda, it was added to UNESCO‘s list of World Heritage Sites in 2003. The former Visigothic bishopric of Baeza remains a Latin Catholic titular see.
Úbeda and Baeza are really close to the Natural Park of Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, the biggest protected area in Spain and the second one in Europe, declared a Biosphere Reserve by the UNESCO. The Natural Park of Despeñaperros is also near to these two cities, the only entrance to Andalusia from the center of Spain.
The landscape in these cities is created by an “ocean of olive trees”, as the poet Antonio Machado wrote.
Why visit Úbeda and Baeza? This was written by a resident
Úbeda and Baeza are two of the few Renaissance jewels preserved in Spain. In a small place, a majestic monumental ensemble raises, composed by palaces and churches from the 16th and 17th centuries. Not only the Renaissance period has marked their inhabitants’ lives, but also the vestiges of the Muslim and Jewish cultures can be observed on their narrow and paved streets.
. I’m perhaps a little biased since I live in Úbeda, but these two towns in the center of the province are probably the best places to encounter Renaissance architecture outside of Italy, and have even been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. In Úbeda, well-proportioned palaces and chapels dominate, while in Baeza you can find university halls with arched patios and also a calming cathedral.
It’s a pretty well-known fact that southern Europe leads the world in growing olives and processing their liquid gold—olive oil. But most people don’t know that the province of Jaén accounts for half of Andalucía’s olive oil production, a third of Spain’s, and a tenth of the entire world’s—whoa! This isn’t hard to believe, though, because almost every square inch of land outside the cities and natural parks is covered in unending, pointillist rows of olive groves.
I recently had the chance to go on a field trip with sixth-graders from the school I work at to *ahem* the world’s largest olive oil factory (almazara)—Cooperativa Ntra. Sra. del Pilar—which has been hiding in plain sight ten minutes down the road! After the olives are harvested, they’re dumped into huge chutes, cleaned, and squeezed to release their raw juices, which are then separated and bottled as extra virgin olive oil. You’ll have to call or email ahead, but exploring any of the province’s co-ops would be on par with touring a vineyard.
Even if you can’t manage to coordinate a factory visit, you can still pop in to any supermarket or boutique oil shop and pick up a bottle of extra virgin olive oil. I recommend the stuff made from the picual olives (traditional olive flavor) or arbequina ones (with hints of almonds!). Stop off at a bakery, get a fresh loaf of bread, and you’ve got your snacktime made.
Free Tapas and Great Food
Move over, Granada—you’ve got company. One of Spain’s best-kept secrets is that you can get free tapas (little appetizers to go with your drink) not just in Granada or Madrid but also all over the province of Jaén. This custom was actually really confusing when I first arrived in town because I thought you had to order tapas separately and was worried they were serving me food I didn’t order.
Anyway, whenever you order a beer, a Coca-Cola, or a glass of wine, your servers will also bring out a little plate of munchies—can be potato salad, toast with cured ham, or anchovies. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a dish of preserved olives, just because, in addition to your tapa. At one place here in Úbeda I’ve been given half a baked potato or a small sandwich!
Some specialties that I really love from this area include: andrajos, a warm, lime-green stew of rabbit, noodles, and vegetables; migas, fried garlic bread crumbs; and ochíos con morcilla en caldera, paprika-coated bread rolls filled with flavorful blood-sausage pâté.
Mountains and Natural Parks
Feeling weary of the flat plains of Castilla? Tired of the beach? Come to Jaén for a change of scenery! For me personally, being a “mountain person,” the landscape is wonderful. With 20% of the province’s land protected in the natural park system, all corners of the province have great chances to hike, see wildlife, and even go parasailing!
The most popular park is the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura, y Las Villas to the east. Composed of three parallel mountain ranges, this nature preserve holds within its borders a dozen or so quiet villages from which you can appreciate many dramatic vistas. One of these towns, Segura de la Sierra, is built on the side of a hill with an ancient castle enthroned on its summit.